Lake Como & Swiss Alpes

Monday, June 2, 2008 

 Lake Como & The Swiss Alps

When we went to our pre-tour meeting, our tour guide, Nicholas, informed us that the museum we were suppose to go to was closed for Italy’s National Independence Day, so we would not be able to go there as scheduled.  He had several options available for folks to choose from and he would ensure you got to your destination; however he informed us he would be taking those who chose Lake Como, Lago di Como, also called Lario, since it was quite a long journey.  Everyone except one couple chose Lake Como, so that made it easy.   

We had to be on the tour bus, in our seats, ready to go first thing in the morning.  This was our first real experience dealing with getting a good seat on the bus.  If you didn’t get the front row, then you had to ensure you had a seat where the curtains were situated behind you or you would not be able to see anything.  You also wanted to sit close to the back door in this case.  We learned the night before that there was one gentleman who had severe injuries and required the front seat at all times, which left only one set of seats for everyone else to fight over; OK, maybe not fight, share.  We did not make it to the front seat this time, so we took the seats one row behind the back door.  They were OK, not great, but at least we could see out both sides of the bus. We started our long journey, not really knowing what to expect from Nicholas or what we would see.  Our journey started from Milano; we traveled through Vialba-Terrazzano-Lainate-Uboldo-Fusetti/Saronno-Turate-Cirimido/Lornazzo-Ronco Vecchio-Cassina Rizzardi-Luisago-Montano Lucino-La Costa-and finally to Lake Como.  We had amazing views of the Swiss Alps as we approached our destination-the Swiss Alps encase a portion of Lake Como. 

A little geography for you…Lake Como is in the northern Italian Lakes District, in the region of Lombardy, and lies between Milano and the border of Switzerland, the Swiss Alps.  The lake itself is divided into three areas: north to south from Como to Colico; mid-lake between Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio, and Cadenabbia; and the southeastern arm to Lecco.   Below are some of the many towns around Lake Como:
·  Menaggio is the main town on the Western Shore. 
·  The amazingly beautiful old fishing village of Varenna, situated near the central portion of Lake Como, and home to Fiumelatte, a torrent that flows thunderously into the lake. 
·  Bellagio is the famous lakeside retreat, has the Bilacus of the Romans, and has converted the Villa Serbelloni into a hotel, with its tree-lined walkways, grand staircases, and steps leading directly into the water below. 
·  The quaint Island, Comacina, once harvesting a tremendous amount of olive trees.  ·         Cernobbio, known for the Villa d’Este, the private residence of Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio in the 1500s. 
·  Torno, dominated by the Church of Santa Tecla, and the Villa Pliniana, painted a spectacular yellow color, which is suppose to have a special spring. 
·  Careno is known as the village with the triangular shape. 
·  Nesso and Bellano have maintained an ancient bridge of Roman origin and has the Orrido, which is a waterfall inside a spectacular cave. 
·  Argegno, is all about hiking. 
·  Ossuccio is home to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Soccorso, which will be my retirement home! 
·  Lenno, which is home to the Villa del Balbianello, a stunning property with two twin bell towers, pathways, and statues encasing it along the water; and has the baptistery of the 11^th Century next to S. Stefano Church.
·  Tremezzina, considered the Riviera of azaleas, with the Villa Carlotta as its focal point-rumor has it that Napolean Bonaparte often visited this villa. 
·  Valassina is the cyclists dream due to the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghisallo, which holds the awards of the greatest champions known to cycling, and the road descending to Erba and then to Brianza.
·  Alto Lago, the ideal place for water sports’ enthusiasts.
·  Santa Maria Rezzonico, with its ancient ruins of the Castle of Della Torre.
·  Dongo, the site in which Benito Mussolini was captured.
·  Gravedona, housing the Church of Santa Maria del Tiglio.
·  Palazzo Gallio with its four corner towers.
·  Domaso, a typical residence with old homes and loaded with history.
·  Pian di Spagna, marshland where many birds stop and take refuge during their journeys.·Sondrio has the Oratory of Saint Fedelino.
·  Colico is at the foot of the Monte Legnone.
·  Piona is famous for the Benedictine Abbey with its 41 white marble columns.·        Corenno Plinio, dominated by a medieval castle.
·    Grigne, is a paradise for hikers and climbers.
·  Lecco has the Ponte Visconeteo, a bridge that crosses the river and becomes an emissary, built by Azzone Visconti in 1300; it has two towers and a draw-bridge.
·  Piazza Cermenati houses the local merchants, and features the Palazzo della Paura or Building of Fear, where the taxes were collected. 
·  San Nicolo Basilica, preserves replicas of the San Nicolo, patron saint of sailors and boatmen.
·  Pescarenico is a typical fishing village that has stood the test of time. 

When we first arrived, Nicholas described the lake and the towns, as well as told us about the transportation-no cars are allowed to drive around the lake, or at least very few; you have to get a special permit to drive in the towns.  We were fortunate that the bus had such a permit so we were able to be dropped off right in front of Piazza Cavour, the old port of the city, across from the town center.  Nicholas had arranged for us to take a tour of the lake by boat, so we climbed aboard, hiked to the very top of the boat, and sat in the very front row of seats; this being a good and bad thing considering the water, the wind, and the eventual rain.   We cruised through the lake a fairly slow rate so we could take in all the scenery, villas, estates, homes, tours, monuments, and such.  Our driver did not speak English, so he would tell Nicholas what we were looking at, and he would in turn translate for us.  We saw a string of famous villas, places where well-known historians, artists, political leaders, poets, and historic figures lived, rented, or vacationed.  The driver said that if he were to take us to George Clooney’s villa, he would never be able to drive a boat tour again; the town is extremely respectful of his privacy due to the great wealth he has bestowed upon the area. 

We saw Porta Torre, which was the ancient entrance to the walled city; and the Baradello Castle while on the lake.  We cruised by the Villa Olmo, which looked like a government building, but was not and is not such.  The most peculiar piece of architecture we saw was the Funicular, which allows travel between Como and Brunate.  Brunate is situated at the top of the mountain and the only way up is to take this train, which goes almost perpendicular to the ground, as in straight up. One of the neat stories we heard was about this guy whose dog kept him company for years and helped him through all sorts of hard times.  When the dog died this man buried him at his favorite place, overlooking the water, right on the edge of the cliff; then he built him a monument that was erected over the grave.  There is something in this man’s will about the dog’s burial space and the monument like it can never be knocked down, moved, or something like that anyway.  It is kind of funny since the dog is on prime real estate.  We were able to see this from the boat and I can only hope that when my time comes, I have something half as nice. 

After the cruise, we walked around Piazza del Duomo, the town center; went to the famous silk shop; found a Nike store, yes, a Nike store; ate at McDonald’s; then strolled down to the Broletto, the original town center, the bell tower, and the Duomo, the cathedral of Como.  The silk shop also has a factory one can tour, however we did not have time.  The prices for Nike products across Italy were absolutely outrageous!  I found this really cool pair of shoes, tried them on, they fit perfectly, looked cool, and I wanted them until I saw the price tag, 250 Euros, making that around $375.00.  I cannot even imagine paying that much money for a pair of shoes, so they stayed in the store.  We were starving, has only half an hour until the tour bus was leaving, so we grabbed McDonald’s, which was just as bad there as it is over here!  The Duomo is a typical catholic cathedral with stain glass windows, carved wood, niches with pictures, figurines, alters, and displays.  Lake Como was one of the most beautiful places we visited and would love to return for a longer visit.