Surfing Sage VIII:  Surfer Girl Rides with the Big Dogs Well folks, it has been a while since the last surfing saga, but alas, I finally have an experience to share.   Every year the Maui Junior Life Guard program has a celebration on the last day of the training, and they usually go to one of the “local” beaches.  For the last two years they have gone to Ho’okipa, the surfing capital of the world.  Last year I tried to convince the instructor to take me surfing while we were there, but to no avail.  I spent weeks trying to get her to take me out, but nothing.  This year was different.  She told me to bring my board because we were going out. I dutifully strapped my board on the top of my “monster truck,” OK, not really jus, Ariel had to help me lift it up on top since I can’t reach, sad, but true!!!  I packed my backpack and off we went.  I was trying to distract myself, to not think about it.  It had been a long time since the last ride, and that one was the first time since the accident.  I was a tad nervous, if you could imagine.  We arrived before everyone else, so we grabbed a spot and unloaded the board.  Every minute I was waiting and watching the water, was painfully twice as long as real life.  I watched as other surfers paddled out.  I watched as they rode the huge waves way, way out.  I watched them trying to get back in.  I watched the waves; how they rolled; how they crashed; where they went; what direction; how high; how much white water there was; and every other element you could think of about the water, waves, environment, and Mother Nature.  Ah, yes, Mother Nature.   As I waited, patiently, I noticed several women, well, young women, girls really.  All doing different things to prepare.  One just stood, holding the tip of her board, staring.  Maybe she was trying to get in the zone.  The second, kneeling down next to her board.  Concentrating so deeply on waxing her board.  She went over and over the same spots, like she couldn’t see what she was doing.  The third, a tall, beautiful blonde, standing at the top of the steps, talking, no listening to a man.  Oh, that’s her coach.  OH, THAT’S HER COACH.  She’s one of the ones on the pro circuit.  She’s at practice.  Life must be rough, getting paid to surf!  What is he saying to her?  They’ve been standing there forever.  I strain to hear…that’s when the instructor arrived, interrupting my eavesdropping.   She gave a brief presentation about responsibilities, safety, currents, and all that, then sent everyone out.  I hung back, not too sure this is really what I wanted to do.  She grabbed her board and tugged at me to get a move on.  It took me twice as long to get it together than usual.  I went through the whole ritual, you know, check hair, sunscreen, check bathing suit, take board out of bag, check the strap, check the wax, go back for scalp sunscreen, wear shoes down, don’t wear shoes down, wear shoes down, oh yeah, chapstick…nothing more to check, apply, change, add.  Nothing holding me back.  No choice, can’t not go, need to save face.  I’d only been begging her for a year to take me.  I grabbed my board and toddled across the path, down the stairs, and along the beach until finally reaching the entry point.  When I say entry point, it is not anywhere you feel like getting in the water, not at Ho’okipa.  There is one and only one entry point.  This small, maybe 5’ opening, across worn-down coral, that slimmed into a very small funnel, barely enough for one person to stand, let alone put a board in the water and jump on.  I hesitated, just for a moment, debating, when one of the junior lifeguard trainees asked if I was really going to go out there, with an inference in her voice like maybe I was too old, or too female, or too anything but a true surfer.  For some reason that lit a spark under me, I flipped the board over and flipped it over again, push it just a little bit out, and jumped on.  Off I went paddling away, as if I did this every day, at Ho’okipa. It was pretty cool at first, no big deal, I can paddle out.  Really, how hard can it be?  It’s just like anywhere else, right?  Now what did the instructor say again about the pattern?  Oh yeah, paddle along the edge of the cliff as close as you can.  Yeah right, next to the cliff, I’ll get a little closer, but I’m not getting that close, that’s for sure.  I reach the spot where the instructor is sitting on her board, giving directions and advice to the trainees.  I pull-up on my board, sit up, and hang for a few minutes.  Figured I better get my bearings and all.  Here comes a pretty big wave, I quickly lie down and paddle towards it, you know they way you are taught to paddle into a wave.  My heart is racing, I can feel my body shaking, I know I must look as white as a ghost.  Crap, crap, crap, is it going to crash on me…no, I went right over it, no big deal.  It really wasn’t that bad.  It is just my mind playing with me.  Whew, OK, I can do this.  The instructor told me to look for the flat, white rock, and use that as a guide.  That is the starting point, the point of reference.  That’s cool, I’m all-good, got it. She nudged me out and told me to catch the next one, but I was not exactly ready yet.  She grabbed it while I watched.  I turned around to check the waves, there was one coming so fast, and so big I had no time to make any decision what-so-ever.  It is either crash and burn or try and catch it.  Catching it sounded much better then the other option, so I got into position, looking over my shoulder, not that one, it is too scary, look over the other one, paddle…aaaaahhhhh!  The wave picks me up and flings me towards the shore as if to say She didn’t want me there, get out of the water, go home.  All I could do was hang on as tight as possible as I went screaming toward the sand.  I didn’t even try to standup, what was the point.  I can’t remember ever going that fast, ever.  These waves are strong and powerful and they will eat you up in seconds flat if you don’t take control.  That was good, I’m good, we can call it a day, right.  No, of course not, that would be way too easy.  Off I go, paddling along the cliff (not really that close though). I reached the flat, white rock, and was planning on sitting and resting, but Mother Nature had another idea in mind.  Huge wave after huge wave came crashing in; there was no time to sit on your board and rest.  It was either Her or me and She won last time, so there was no way I was going to let Her win this time.  As She pushes me deeper into the spot, I know I’m going to have just do it, just grab the wave and do what I know how to do.  As one from this set comes flashing in, I talk myself through the steps, paddle, paddle, paddle, push up, maybe not, hold on, hold on, hold on.  Dang, She is so fast, I can barely stay on my board.  Don’t let her win, make a move, do something.  Push-up, knees-wind pressing against my face so forcefully I can’t see, just let your body do its thing, don’t think.  Stand up already, stand up!  Up I go, down I go.  FEAR!  Flash backs.  I didn’t think one could have flashbacks from a surfing accident, I thought that was reserved for those who really went through…well, you know what I mean.  The image of the board flying in the air, in slow motion coming towards me, watching myself from outside of my body, doing nothing but watching as the board body-slams my face.  Grab the nose of the board, hold it tight, watch the set!  I quickly flip my board over and as I scramble on, the next wave comes, hitting me hard, and shoving me across the board.  Plop, on the other side…another wave coming, coming now, hurry, hurry.  I don’t think I have ever scrambled onto my board so fast ever.  Hold on, hold the rails, ride this one out.  Whew, made it through another one.  Look down, oops, something is not in the same place as when I put it on this morning.  Tug, pull, rearrange.  Better.   That wasn’t too bad.  Paddle back out, look for the flat, white rock.  The waves are “calm” today, or so I’ve been told, as I thrash through the choppy, knock your block off, “calm” waves to get back out.  Oh yeah, don’t forget, there is no resting, remember?  The instructor looks at me for a moment, then asks if I’m all right.  My reply was, not really.  I’m just a tad scared, you know after the accident and all.  Her response, you’ll be fine, just stay by the flat, white rock.  As if this flat, white rock has magical powers or something!  I lie on my board, watching, and praying not to die today.  All the trainees have taken their rides and I’m the only one left, by the flat, white rock.  Yeah, these trainees are what, 10, 11, 12 maybe, OK a few are 14 or 15, but still, how old am I and I’m still just sitting here.  I push my way out to the sweet spot.  Bring it on Mother Nature, bring-it-on. My eyes about to bug out of my head, as She brings it on.  No need to paddle, I learned that with the other waves.  She is all-powerful and Her waves can launch a rocket ship if She wanted.  It’s coming, it’s coming, I can’t look, I do not care what the “rules” are, I’m not looking.  My knuckles are turning white from holding on so tightly, I think I stopped breathing.  Is that my heart I can hear?  I feel Her under me.  I feel Her power lift me.  I feel Her strength as She flings me across Her.  Don’t think, just do it, don’t think, just do it.  Push-up, knees, whoa, way too fast, I’m going to eat it for sure, stand up, be tough, you can do it!  Up, up, I’m up, and across the board I go flying, and bam, I hit the water hard, really hard.  Good thing I remembered that starfish concept, cuz I just about sliced my hinny on the reef.  As I grabbed the nose, and looked around to get my bearings and see what She was up to.  One of the trainees asked if I was OK and if I was sure I wanted to go out again.  Now I realize she was just being kind and thoughtful, but really, what do I look like, an old, decrepit lady, really!  Hahaha, yeah I’m fine, it was nothing really, just didn’t have good balance-is what I said to her.  What I was thinking was a completely different matter-you can only imagine. It didn’t seem this far to paddle out last time.  My arms are aching, I feel like Jell-O.  I look like, well, I can’t use those kinds of words since youngsters might be reading this…my eyes burned, my knee throbbed, I was breathless (and not in a good way!), and my heart was racing so fast I envisioned these trainees rescuing me after having a heart attack out there, in the waves, with Mother Nature laughing in my face.  I finally reach the flat, white rock.  I am so tired, I do not care, I’m going to sit on my board.  OK, maybe not.  The instructor tells me I need to paddle closer to the cliff-whatever, that is about as close as I’m going get, period.  She says, you know, when you’re that far away, you start getting in the channel and it really makes paddling much more challenging and tiring.  OK, fine, I will paddle closer next time.  I’m in the heart of all these trainees, who are at times, a tad clueless, and don’t understand the unspoken rules of surfing.  Like, don’t cut in on someone.  Like don’t paddle across a wave especially if someone if trying to catch it.  Like don’t get so close I can smell what kind of gum you are chewing.  Like get out of the blasted way already!  I’m being sucked out farther and farther.  Better catch something and soon, or I’ll end up down at Mama’s, and I don’t mean someone’s mother’s house, I mean Mama’s Fish House, which is not really that close, in relation to where I am at the moment.   Paddle, paddle, no, don’t paddle, the dang wave will be so strong there will be no need to paddle, and you definitely do not want to go faster.  Must turn and look, don’t care that you are so fearful you might just loose it right then and there.  LOOK!  White-knuckling it all the way baby!  You know the drill, up I go, down I go, no wait, I’m still up.  Hey, I’m riding.  I caught a wave.  I’m surfing Ho’okipa.  Look at me, look at me.  This is so cool, this is beyond cool.  This is rad, this is so totally bitchin’ I can’t even begin to describe it.  There are no words.  Enjoy the moment.  Life in the moment.  Soak it all up, take it all in.  What an absolutely gorgeous view.  What an incredible experience.  The emotions that wash over me are so powerful.  This is why I come back out.  This is why I don’t give up.  This is why I push myself and never give up.  This, this ride, this is why it is all worth it.  Being one with Mother Nature.  Feeling Her gentle breeze in my hair.  Being at the top of world, with no cares.  Finding peace.  Finding tranquility.  What an oh so powerful experience.   You’d think I was riding that wave, for like, an hour, but…yikes.  Pay attention!  The reef, the reef.  Starfish.  You have got to be kidding me.  If the reef didn’t get me last time, it surely will this time if I starfish.  Duh, just lie back down on the board; you do remember how to do that right?!  Duh!  Whew, that was a close one.  Oh my gosh, I SURFED HO’OKIPA!!!!  I ACTUALLY SURFED HO’OKIPA.  YOU KNOW, LIKE, CAUGHT A WAVE AND EVERYTHING.  I SURFED HO’OKIPA!!  OH MY GOSH!  I CAN’T BELIEVE I JUST SURFED HO’OKIPA!!!    I know, I know, get over it.  People surf Ho’okipa every day of the year, it is really not that monumental of an experience, really.  Well, maybe for those pros it’s not, but for me, it was a life-long goal of mine to actually surf Ho’okipa.  Well, maybe not life-long, but since I started surfing anyway. The next half hour was filled with the same kinds of triumphs and tribulations, until it was break time-you know the real reason we were there…to celebrate the trainees making it through the program and all.  I’ll spare you the saga of trying to get out of the water-what drama that was!  Break is over, time to surf again.  Peer pressure bounds all around.  If I just left now, I could still say I surfed Ho’okipa.  I met my goal.  I completed the task.  It’s all good.  “Hey, you coming or what?”  Guess who that was? That’s right, the instructor.  I’ll be right there.  Guess that answers my dilemma. As I reach the, what was that again, what?  Yeah, you know, the flat, white rock, I’m feeling pretty good about myself.  I feel strong.  I feel confident.  I am woman, hear me roar, oh wait, that’s another song.  I swing up on my board, cuz I am going to sit on it if it is the last thing I do, so there.  Whoops, did I forget to tell you, you should never think those things loud enough for Her to hear.  This quaint little spot, by the flat, white rock, doesn’t get the waves, just the little ripples as the wave fades away.  I’m safe in this little spot, by the flat, white rock.  Whoops, I thought that too loudly again, She heard.  Yes, She heard.  I see it.  I see Her.  It’s coming, straight towards me.  It’s rearing up on its hind legs, standing tall, reaching its claws out, stretching to gain that little bit more in height, glaring at me, gaining momentum as it draws closer.  It must be 50 feet high, OK, so I exaggerate, but it feels like it is that high! Instinct takes over, I quickly sprawl on my board, and paddle to IT.  Just as I make it through to the other side, another, and another, and another.  They are coming so fast, there is no time.  I’m getting pulled out, further, and further.  It’s Her or me.  It’s going to be me this time!  I have never turned my board around so fast, ever.  Just in time, as this big, ferocious, beast comes pounding down, on little ol’ me.  Hang tight, just make it through.  Don’t you just love natural instinct?  I do because before I knew what was happening, I was up and riding.  Ye-haw, I’m riding, I caught a wave!!   Mother Nature wasn’t too happy.  Next time, She warned me, next time.  I paddle back out, to guess where?  You got it, the flat, white rock.  I’m going to sit on my board, so there.  Or yeah, I don’t think so, says Mother Nature.  Dang it, can’t a girl just take a rest, or what.  Here they come, again, in the “safe zone.”  One after another, after another.  I paddled through them last time, I can do it this time.  Or, maybe not.  It just knocked me clear off the board, like I wasn’t even holding on or anything.  Under, under I go.  Tossed around like a rag doll.  Grab the board!  There is no way that board is doing a face-plant on me again.  You know kind of hurt.  Look for the bubbles, which way are they going, find the top, hands up.  Ah, air again, I can breath.  Don’t hesitate, don’t wait.  She’ll give you a good push, and boy does She ever.  This time I wipe out.  I go flying through the air, who knows what my board is doing.  Slammed right into the coral on my hinny.  Hey, what’s that throbbing sensation on my foot, no my toe.  Hey, what’s that stinging feeling on my elbow.  OK, there’s blood.  How much?  Is it bad?  Should I get out?  Hum, nothing on my hinny, ok, moving on, can’t quite get to my toe without risking further injury as the waves keep crashing in.  Skip the elbow for now, get on the board, the elbow can wait.  Paddle out of destruction range, closer to the cliff, get to the flat, white rock, sit on board, look at elbow.  Hum, it’s bleeding.  Not too bad.  Cut is small.  Won’t scare.  Good. Deal with it.  Move on.  (Sounds familiar…”is it oozing or spurting?”  Oozing.  “You’re fine”). Mother Nature pushes and pulls me in every direction.  Taking complete control.  Tempting me to cross Her.  Dragging me a little further with each attempt to catch a ride.  One after another, after another, until I am so tired, so drained, I can hardly hold on.  I can hardly paddle enough to catch anything.  I don’t even want to catch a ride, I’m so exhausted.  I just want to get out already.  The instructor invades my thoughts with her announcement that it was time to get out, but I could stay if I wanted.  What, time is up, no way, I’m not even ready to go yet.  Just one more, just one more, please!  I paddle senselessly out, in hopes of catching that last ride.  After several fruitless attempts, I decide to break the surfer’s code, and paddle in.  I know, I know, never, never, ever paddle in, under any circumstances, ever.  But I’m tired, and all the rides I’ve been catching are so tiny and short-lived.  Just this one time, only this one time.  I won’t do it again, I promise.  Ah, but Mother Nature had something else in store for me that day.  She sends thee most gentle, beautiful, rolling wave to me I have ever experienced.  Up I go, riding.  I float across the water, riding the top of the wave, the crest.  Traveling parallel to the shoreline.  Forever.  That whole peaceful, spiritual moment washes over me, as I become one with Mother Nature.  As She lets me enjoy Her spirit and learn of Her joys.  She is amazing, Mother Nature.   I’d love to end the story there.  To make you all believe that the ride lasted forever, but we all know that’s impossible.  But, the ride could not have been more perfect, if I’d planned it myself.  As She died down, I dropped on my board, flipped it around, and paddled to the entry point.  Just to make this story feel like a fairy tale, I had no issues getting out! (wink, wink)  As I carried my board along the shoreline, and up the steps, I thought of Her.  I silently thanked Her.  I praised my triumphant day, but only for a moment, because I know there will be another day.     

  Surfer Girl Rides Again

  We pack up the truck and head west, yes to the spot, to the same location, to the very same place that almost took my life.  O.K. maybe not almost took my life, but still…I know it is time, but I wonder if I could come up with any more excuses to push it back just one more day.  I’m a tad crabby to say the least.  I know it is for the best.  The only way to show Mother Nature that she did not get the best of me, that she did not win, that yes, She would see me once again.

As we start to edge around the corner, towards the west side, I am hoping that maybe it is flat.  You know, so flat there is no point cuz all you’ll do is paddle, and paddle some more, with no waves to catch.  I am rewarded, it is flat, or at least at the southern most end of the west side.  As we approach the next turn in the road, I’m looking over, searching, to see what is out there, if I can escape today’s change encounter with Mother Nature.  I see a few waves, but they are small, really too small.  I’m relaxing while being completely and totally stressed-out, all at the same time.  I think good, it is still flat, no waves.  We keep traveling further and further towards the dreaded monster.  As we pull adjacent to the edge, there are waves, but I wonder, hum, can I say they are too small?  Awe, there is no parking, oh darn, can’t park, can’t surf.  But no, Skeeter would have to find the one spot along the highway that he could squeeze the big monster truck into.  Engine off, open door, hop out (literally, because I cannot reach the ground from inside the truck), shut the door, saunter to the edge.  Wow, the edge is sandy, not rocky, that’s a good sign.  The water looks peaceful, calm, inviting.  Should I, maybe not, well it does seem like a good day, after all I drove all this way, better to give it a go, especially on a day like today.  O.K. there is no more excuses, no more waiting, no more reason to not go. 

Drudge my beaten-down body back to the truck, open the door, untie the board, pull down the board (O.K. actually Skeeter pulled down the board, yeah, that’s right, because I cannot reach even if I stand on the running board!), carry it across the parking lot, to the edge, over the cliff, and lie it on the boulders.  Take it out of the case.  It looks so innocent, so sweet and full of life, as if it can do no more harm to you than a sweet little baby.  It’s calling to me, asking me where I’ve been and why it’s been locked away for so long.  Gosh I hope the wax is OK, it looks a little ratty.  It will be fine, I’m sure it will be fine.  Sunscreen, scalp spray, lip balm, shirt off, shorts off, shoes off, ankle strap on.  Now there is nothing more to do to waste time, I mean to prepare.  I turn and look to my beloved Skeeter, my coach, my strength, my enlightenment, my wisdom, my…and he interrupts my thoughts with “well, get to it.”  No special words of wisdom, no positive encouragement, nothing, absolutely nothing.  I guess this will all ride on me.

Eewwee, the wax feels kind of yucky.  I’m sure it will be fine.  I’ll just flip the board over and cool it down.  I’m sure it will be fine.  Wax doesn’t go bad, does it?  I look over the horizon, watching and timing my departure just right.  There is really nothing to watch or time since, remember, it is flat!  I push the board out, and hop on.  I start to paddle…not too bad, this feels familiar, like riding a bicycle, one never forgets.  I paddle and look, paddle and look, finding my spot amongst the few surfers trying to catch a wave on this blissfully delightful day.  I can do this.  This isn’t that bad.  Keep paddling, get to the spot, well maybe stay in kind of close for the first few.  You know, ride the white water a few times, maybe even just fly in on my stomach or knees, just to get a feel for it again.  Yikes, here comes a wave, what do I do, what do I do, I can’t remember what to do, oh yeah, push up.  Like duh, that wasn’t that big of a deal.  Just relax, it is like every other time, no big deal, just catch a few waves, just a few. 

I find my spot and swing my body upright, sitting on the board.  It is rather nice out today, a little cloudy, but still warm enough not to freeze to death.  The water is absolutely beautiful, I can see all the way to the bottom.  Maybe I don’t really want to see all the way to the bottom?  I glance around and see a young boy pointing down and trying to get his father’s and brother’s attention.  He is insistent that they look at what he is pointing at.  It can’t be a shark, could it?  In this spot?  We’re in pretty close still.  But what about all those shark attacks we keep hearing about?  It could be a shark, couldn’t it?  IIIIIIII what is that shadow?  Oh snap, it is a shark, I know it is, what’s moving under there, oh my gosh, what should I do, what did they say to do again, don’t lie flat, stand vertical so they won’t think your food, oh my gosh, why did I think I wanted to be a surfer girl anyway, the headlines are going to read surfer girl dies from shark attack after devastating crash in the same place…how stupid is this surfer girl to return to the same place?!  Oh, it was just a shadow from the passing plane.  Boy, I need to relax before I give myself a heart attack, but really, maybe I’d rather like the water a little more murky after all. 

Sitting on my board, I watch the horizon, I seek out the best wave for the first catch of the day.  Here comes one, no it is just a swell, I’ll let this one pass.  The water is pretty calm, that’s kind of weird.  Another several waves come and go as I sit on my board and contemplate.  The longer I sit here, the harder it will be…just take the next one, who cares if it is a baby one, just take it.  Here it comes, paddle, paddle, paddle, no really paddle…do you even remember how to paddle?  The wave comes rolling through, catching my board and thrusting me forward, I am sailing full speed ahead, going so fast I might crash into the rock wall if I don’t take control of this board.  I push up, pop to my knees, grab the oh so thin rails, jump to my feet, stay squatting until I get my balance, it’s ok to squat, it is a form of surfing, and wham, slid right across the board, off the other side and splash, right into the shallow water.  That was a close one, don’t want to rip my gluteus on the coral today!  Jump back on the board, paddle, paddle, paddle…this is nice, the water is so smooth, so calm, so peaceful, it’s a joy to be just paddling across the waves.  It is a very serene feeling.  This isn’t too bad.  I don’t know why I was so freaked-out about coming back.  It’s as if nothing ever happened.  I’ll just catch the next wave and be right on top of my game!

Wishful thinking, at the very least.  The next several attempts are fruitless, with the same sliding off to the other side of the board, not finding balance, crashing, and then paddling and paddling and paddling back out to get in position just to repeat the same sequence over again.  What is it that we coaches are always telling our charges, to keep practicing, it will come?  Back into position.  Back to more falling off, not finding balance, crashing, and paddling.  This one looks a little bigger, but not out of control.  Quick, turn the board around, lie down, no scoot down further, OK that’s better, look over your shoulder, no the other one, remember, the left one, paddle. 

Really, paddle, paddle harder, paddle, paddle, paddle, here it comes…the wave whooshes in, stanches my board and pummels it towards the shore with me hanging on for dear life.  Instinct takes over, up to my knees, hold the rail, jump to your feet, hold the rail, hold the rail, find your balance, find your balance, am I balanced? 

I can’t tell, stand up, stand up, I said, STAND UP!!  Up I pop, flying a million miles an hour towards shore, but I’m standing, maybe a little wobbly, you know you gotta get your “surfer legs” back.  Wait, I’m pretty sure I don’t want to crash onto the shore.  How do I turn, I forgot how to turn.  How do I turn?!  No time to search my memory for recall.  Why didn’t it just instantly recall the information I needed.  Why I am debating this when I’m going to crash onto the shoreline, the rock wall, and well, we all know what would happen if that happened.  Stop thinking and do something, anything, just do something.  What did Beth say to do, jump off your board, no, that’s not it, fall in, no flop, flop, flop like a starfish.  Whew, that was a close one, with just a few feet from shore and my gluteus just skimmed the top of the coral reef.  Now, that wasn’t that bad, was it? 

I climb back onto my board, look over the horizon, seek out my spot, and paddle out, enjoying the serene, peaceful water.  Just me and my board.  Nothing and no one to distract me.  No whining children, no out-of-control students, no nagging spouse, no deadlines, no exams to study for, no nothing, no one but me and my board.  Just the two of us, finding that connection again.  Finding the oneness that it takes to truly be considered a surfer girl. 

This time, I need to get back in the groove and practice my turns, and stops.  That should be easy, I had them down pat before.  I get in position, me and my board, and paddle hard while the waves come rolling in.  I push up, pop to my knees, jump to my feet, ride the rails just for a moment, stand up, put pressure on the back foot, move arms, there we go, we’re turning.  See, it’s not that bad.  What a good day to come and get my feet wet again.  As I sit on my board, watching the horizon, contemplating life, I begin to realize that there hasn’t been a wave for some time now, well, that’s ok, just sitting out here is good.  Being able to get past my emotional scars, work through the trauma, is worth it.  What a good day to do this.  Ooppss, here comes and goes a set.  I really should pay better attention.  I am here to surf after all.  Pay attention, watch the horizon, read the waves.  What the heck, oh-my-gosh, that is thee biggest wave I have ever seen!  Crap, crap, crap…I better ride this one cuz I really don’t want to try to go through it, that’s for sure.  Turn the board, turn the board, TURN THE BOARD ALREADY!  Paddle, paddle, no really, paddle, look over your shoulder, maybe not that shoulder, look over the other shoulder it won’t look as huge.  This is way too big, what was I thinking, I’m going to crash and die, well maybe not die, but I might really get hurt this time…too late, here it comes…the wave comes pounding in, hard and fast.  Forget paddling, hang on, hang on!  Dang, this wave really sent me flying, I’m really moving now, like a freight train on a crash course with the train station.  Remember, the shore is right there, right there!  Push up, knees, feet, balance, ride the rails, stand up, pressure, pressure, turn, turn, turn.  Whew, this is pretty good.  This is pretty sweet.  This is the ride!  The one ride you wait for, the one you dream of.  Nothing to get too stressed about, nothing to get too worried about.  It’s all good.  Whoops, pay attention to what you’re doing otherwise you’ll…you’ll…you’ll crash…WHAM!  I hit the water hard, press my body out like a starfish, float up to the surface, look around, don’t want that board to have another one-on-one with my face.  Oh there it is, resting peacefully, floating next to me, waiting to be collected, to be ridden again, as if it is not a deadly weapon.  Don’t ever forget that!   

Mother Nature must be on vacation today, that wave really wasn’t that bad.  I’ve surfed bigger and faster.  Cool.  I’m up for a few more before calling it a day.  I hop onto my board and start paddling out…imagine, eyes growing ten times their size, pupils dilating until all that is left is black, breathing stopped, heart racing, if I could be sweating I would be, as I peer at the awesome set of waves Mother Nature has sent my way.  There is no way I can ride these, I’m too close to the shoreline and not in position, can’t get in position.  I have only one option, that is paddle into the wave and pray She doesn’t shallow me whole.  Here She comes, tall and mighty, with incredible force.  What are the options again, hold and roll, or push up and hang on.  Can’t hold and roll, that’s for sure.  I swear I need to stop being so analytical and just perform.  It’s gotta be push up and hang on.  The nose is tipping over the wave, straight up towards to sky, I’m hanging on tight, albeit the rest of me is flailing from side to side.  Splat!  The board slams down on the other side of the wave.  SPLAT!  goes my body as I slam onto the board, full force.  So, a little bruising won’t be that bad.  War wounds.  Evidence of my success.  If that is all Mother Nature has to throw at me today, I win.  Did I just say that?  Not good!  She is always, always listening.  She will never let you win.  She wants you to always remember who is in charge.  She wants to remind you that you are a guest in Her world, in Her water. 

She heard…She’s sending me a reminder…not just one huge, gigantic wave, but a set, a set of three…I’m not even on the board yet.  This is when it happened last time.  No time to get on, quick, grab the nose, grab the nose.  (As if that’s gonna make a difference-it didn’t last time!)  The wave is reeling closer and closer.  The curl is right there, almost on top of me, it’s gonna drop right on my head…ooohhhh, She gave me a break…as I see the white water rushing towards me.  What a relief.  YIKES, here comes the next one, bigger and stronger than the last.  As I scurry onto the board, it grows closer and closer…getting bigger and bigger…gaining momentum…gaining strength…getting ready to eat me in one big gulp.  I could wait it out, but, but, but it’s too late…paddle…one stroke, two strokes, it’s upon me, it’s roaring over me, I can barely hang on as She whips me around like a rag doll.  SPLAT!  goes the board.  SPLAT!  goes my body onto the board.  Whew, another close call.  Just one more, just one more.  Up and over, no worries here.  Paddle to your spot, paddle to your spot.

Pop up, move body, swing legs over, and sit, hanging legs, dangling legs, just chill, enjoy, find what it is you came here looking for…one more ride, just one more.  Be patient, wait, don’t be greedy.  It will come.  The perfect wave.  The perfect ride.  As long as you respect.  As long as you sustain patience.  As long as you are humble.  She will provide.  No, not this one.  This is not the one.  Wait, be patient.  Not this one either.  Wait.  She will send the perfect one.  Show respect, show respect.  Awe, She provides.  She provides the perfect one.  As I paddle effortlessly, cutting through the water as if it is whip cream, I glide over the top of the wave, there are no steps, I stand, I ride, I turn, I drop back down onto the board, and call it a day.

Although Mother Nature made her presence known, She allowed me to gain my strength, build my confidence, feel secure with Her again, She let me win, just this once, just so She knows I’ll come back for another visit.  Ah, Mother Nature, She is wondrous, She is glorious, She just is!

Surfer Girl’s Saga VI: Yesterday I went surfing and had my 1st real accident…had to go to urgent care and everything.

The day was rather interesting, very different from any other day I have ever surfed.  It would be flat, really flat, almost as if the ocean were dead, no wind, no nothing, not even a ripple.  Then all of a sudden a huge set would come flying in, 3, maybe 4 in a row.  They seemed really powerful, but then would stop as abruptly as they started.  The ocean would become choppy, to the point that I could not even paddle.  Of course, I would then get stuck getting ripped by the entire set!  Within a second, it all would change again…it became as smooth as glass, calm and beautiful.  I could see all the way to the bottom with all the coral, shells, plant life, and sand.  Next thing you know there’d be another set coming in, more of a medium set, looked to be the type that anyone could catch, not real big, but not real little either.  I would paddle, and paddle, and paddle, but to no avail.  The wave would just drop out, as if it weren’t there in the first place.  There was no pattern, no rhythm or reason, it just was. 

I tried to catch this really huge wave that was coming towards me, but wiped out instead.  When I say wiped out, I don’t mean just falling off the board, no big deal.  I was crushed under the wave, rolling under the water, trying to find the surface.  When I finally did, I popped my head out with my hands above my head.  The board was at the end of the stretched out leash and seemed to be just waiting for me to pull it towards me.  As I begun to tug the leash another wave from this set came crashing in on me.  I tried to duck, which I actually think I did do, but it is a little hazy now.  When the wave passed, I stuck my head out of the water again and watched the board bounced twice.  I grabbed the leash and started towing the board in towards me and just when I thought I had caught the nose, another one of these fabulous (sarcasm here) waves came crashing in.  I obviously didn’t have a good grip, so Mother Nature took control of the board, tossing it in the air and bouncing it off the water, until it took its final bounce.  The bounce that has caused me so much pain and agony.  The one that I will never forget for as long as I live.  The one that will remain embedded in my memories as a reminder that Mother Nature will always, always be in control.

I saw the board coming straight towards me.  It was the weirdest thing.  I could see it coming, I knew it was going to hit me, but I couldn’t do anything to stop it and I couldn’t get out of the way.  It was as if I was frozen in time.  I cannot even explain the vision I had at the time or what the board looked like when it came ready to crush me in my tracks.  This should lead you to believe that, yup, it hit me square on the nose and front teeth.  Instant blood everywhere, gushing down my face.  I couldn’t figure out where it was coming from…I thought it was my teeth since I was tasting blood.  I finally got control of the board, jumped back on, and was trying to wipe the blood off, when I noticed this guy staring at me.  Something made me look down…my bathing suit top was no longer on, so I guess he got a free show!  I rinsed my bloody hands off, put my top back on, then paddled back to shore.  At this point I didn’t think it was really that bad.  A matter of fact, I was seriously thinking of going back out.  I would never want to let Mother Nature win, well at least completely and utterly win.  But… the blood kept coming and coming and coming.  It was so gross. 

Nancy (Dax’s wife; Dax is Skeeter’s son) and Ariel kept asking if they should take me to the hospital.  Like I said, I didn’t think it was that big of a deal, even though I was going through all the napkins we have in reserve in the truck.  After a while, I guess their continual questions about going to the doctor finally convinced me that maybe I better go after all.
We went over to the urgent care clinic on the Lahaina side…can’t believe they made me wait for so long.  Here I am, blood dripping down my face, ice pack on my nose and mouth (from the 1st aid kit that Skeeter though was unnecessary to purchase), looking all raggedy…hair, I don’t even know how to describe how jacked-up it looked; wet tank-top, which I later found out had blood all down the front of it too!  (Can’t believe they let me walk around all day with blood all over my shirt!-but that’s a whole ‘nother story); beach towel wrapped around my waist and legs.  I’m telling you, if I saw me coming, I think I might have been a little scared.  They checked me in, told me to take a seat and wait.  When they finally called me 30 or so minutes later, they did the standard tests and sat me in a room for another eternity. 

The doctor finally came in and saw me, said he didn’t think my nose was broken, although it sure does feel like it.  Said I have a huge cut on the inside of my right nostril and I should not irritate it…like, no duh!  My lip was swollen, several cuts inside the upper lip, scrapes on the skin between the nose and the upper lip; teeth very sensitive.  Doctor checked the gums, no discoloration, no bleeding, no swelling-thinks they will be fine.  Told me to ice-like no kidding!  I have had a headache for two days, kind of feels like a mild concussion to me.  The nurse gave me three painkillers, which I promptly took all of them, and sent me off with three more ice bags.  For the rest of the day Ariel or Nancy would let me know if I had blood dripping down my face…I couldn’t feel it.  I was shaky, tired, swollen, and irritable, to say the least.

Today I woke up with two fat lips, swollen nose, and black dried blood blocking my nostril, which gave me a sore throat from breathing through my mouth all night.  Plus, a blasting headache that will not quit!  Oh yeah, my lips are numb, so they are doing that whole tingling, needle thing.  Everyone is trying to say it doesn’t look that bad, yeah right, I can see in the mirror myself!

I was worried about my teeth, so Ariel called the dentist for me while I was at the doctor’s.  The receptionists are not very nice!  We couldn’t get in to see the dentist yesterday, but since my teeth are not loose, just tender, I figure it will be OK to wait another day to see what happens.  I did chip the front left one though.  The doctor said he didn’t think there would be anything wrong, no damage to the roots, and so forth.  I hope he is right on that account!
I did forget to mention Ariel’s reaction when she witnessed the “accident.”  Nancy’s rendition is that Ariel was sitting in the front seat of the car, watching me through the review mirror.  All of a sudden Ariel made some un-understandable screech, jumped out of the truck and ran to the shoreline. 

Nancy said she couldn’t figure out what was going on so she jumped out of the truck too.  When she approached Ariel she asked what was wrong.  Ariel told her that I wiped out, but Nancy wasn’t worried since that is all part of the whole surfing thing, and was turning to go back to the truck when Ariel stopped her.  She was a little panicky and was trying to say that no, this was not a standard wipe out, that she just knew it was way more serious.  She was dancing up and down the shoreline, trying to figure things out, trying to see what had happened.  Of course, once I was to the shore, Ariel acted as if she could care less.  Typical teenager!
At any rate, Mother Nature won this round but it is not over yet.  As soon as my head stops pounding; I can feel my lips; the swelling decreases enough to breathe; and my teeth stop feeling like they were rocked out of my head, I’ll be back.  SHE has not seen the end of me yet.  I know, in the back of my mind, that SHE will always be the winner in the long run, but I still have this burning desire to at least win a few battles; carve a few more notches on my belt; gain a little respect from HER.  This Surfer Girl is not throwing in the board just yet.  Be watching, you never know when there’ll be another saga in the midst.

Forever,

< Surfer Girl

Here is the surfer girl’s 5^th saga…

It was a bright, shinning day and my thoughts were filled with visions of sun, water, waves, and rides.  I was wondering if it would be worth driving all the way over to the other side of the island since we have had a virtually flat summer and fall season.  But, the urge, the drive, the desire to catch a wave was just too strong.We packed up the truck, loaded the board, and jumped in for the long journey.  As the truck curved around the west corner, I was dismayed at seeing the flat, flat, flat water, but endured, in hopes that rounding another curve of the road would bring the long awaited waves.  We pulled into the parking lot in front my favorite little surf spot.  And, behold, a nice, smooth set is rolling in.  I jump out of the truck, stand on the edge, searching for more waves…the set ends, not another one in sight…it just can’t be, there has to be more…the debate begins, should I just paddle out even if it means sitting forever for just one ride, or should I just pack it in, forget it, and retreat?  The debate running through my head like ice water slipping down your throat on a hot day, begging, hoping, praying for a sign, any sign, just a sign…sure enough Mother Nature answers…another set, just a beautiful as the first, comes rolling in.  That’s it, that’s the sign, I’m going in.As I’m preparing myself and my board I notice several groups of people around me that I didn’t notice previously.  To the right, the group of regulars that surf this spot every day; to the left, another group of locals, but new to me.  I’m thinking, it’s been a long time since I’ve hit the waves, do I really want to embarrass myself in front of these surfers…hhhuuummm…but again, Mother Nature must have read my mind because the next thing I know they are all hopping into their vehicles and pulling out.  Thank goodness.I slowly walk down the rocky edge, to the sandy shore, tiptoe into the water, bbbuuurrr, it’s a little chilly, put the board in the water and jump on.  I paddle out, and all the same feeling come rushing back.  The excitement of catching a wave, the fear of getting crushed, the peacefulness, and the overwhelming feeling of becoming one with nature, with Mother Nature.  I’m all alone in my one little spot.  There is no one to share a ride with, talk to, or think about.  I push up and swing my legs up into a sitting position.  I sit and watch and enjoy the sun, the water, and the view.  Just as I wonder how long I’m going to be floating out there waiting, a nice, easy-going set is in the horizon.  I swing my board around, plop down, and get ready to paddle.  As I look over my shoulder, I see it, I start paddling, and next thing you know, I’m popping up, standing, riding the first wave.  It was the loveliest ride I’ve ever had.  How sweet is it to catch the first one on the first day back in, like forever?!I paddle back out, sit up, and wait.  The next set isn’t too long in coming.  I press myself, telling myself to wait and be patient because the first wave in a set is not always the best ride, the next one may be better.  I wait.  I see it coming and I paddle, paddle, paddle…up I go, catching another sweet ride.  As I swing back around, I wave to my entourage.  I’m feeling pretty good about myself.  Feeling pretty confident.  It is like riding a bike, one never forgets.  That’s the one cardinal rule a surfer must always remember and never break…never, and I mean never ever, feel overly confident, because if Mother Nature gets a whiff of that she will surely strike.  You never know how she may strike, it could come in the form of huge, out-of-control waves, or choppy water which is brutal to paddle through, or a complete change or weather, or who knows what else, but I do know not to cross her.My punishment is waiting just over the horizon.  I spend the next half hour off-balance, unable to paddle hard enough to catch a wave, and struggling to paddle back out after my failed attempts.  This is when I start doing the whole self-talk thing.  I know I’m only saying it in my head, but I wonder if others could hear me would they think I am nuts?  I play back the scenes from the surfing DVD.  I restate all the phrases, hints, and words that help beginners to get into the right position to be able to stand up.  Let’s start over, from the beginning.  I pull my board into position, realign my body on the board, look over my shoulder, paddle, paddle, paddle, push-up, pop to knees, left foot, right foot, hold the rails, find balance, slowly stand, remember to transfer pressure and use arms to turn.  Boy, that was a lot of work for just one ride, but it gives me the feeling that I actually can surf, so I suppose it is worth it after all.  As I paddle back out, feeling happy and content, I see a pretty big set coming.  I’m too far inland to turn and ride, but not far enough out to float through it.  Great, this one is going to crash on my head, I’m going to be turned upside-down, eat sand, and all that goes with a crushing wave.  I paddle hard, hoping it will give me enough power to push through the top of the wave.  Here is comes, I’m nervous, I react on instinct, paddling until the wave is almost on top of me, then I grab the rails tight, push up, and hold on for dear life.  Water over comes the board, hitting me in the face, burning my eyes, burning my throat, pulling at my suit.  I close one eye from the burning sensation.  I can’t focus.  I can’t really see.  Oh no!  Here comes the next one in the set…I’m so not ready, not prepared, and it is so strong it almost knocks me completely off my board.  I barely hold on, with one blurry eye open.  I clamber back up, try to adjust my position, pull my suit back into place, and try to paddle.  As if!  It seems like 15 minutes later when I finally get out of the path of the set into a safe place to rest, but in actuality, it was only a few minutes.I sit on my board, cursing the wrong sunscreen for running into my eyes when the water made contact, and try to wipe it away with my wet, seawater hands, which, by the way, doesn’t help.  Should I retreat, just call it a day, and go in?  I can’t see, I can’t paddle, I’m getting a toe cramp, and who knows what else.  Boy, I’m glad that family stubbornness can be a good thing sometimes, and it kicks in now.  Besides, it’s another one of those cardinal sins to paddle in, a surfer always rides in, never, never, ever paddle in!  I turn the board, sit, and watch the horizon.  I notice the clouds in the sky.  I watch the boats and the parasail.  I look at the other islands.  I find that peace, that peace that washes over one when out in Mother Nature, alone, vulnerable, carefree.  I’m soaking in the environment, the peacefulness, the joy of being on the water.  Whoops, maybe I shouldn’t get that caught up because a huge set is coming…oh crud, hurry, hurry, turn the board, come on, turn the board, no, not facing left, facing straight, facing straight.  Paddle, paddle, but I’m not right on the board, too bad, it’s too late, paddle, paddle, or wipe out.  My arms just start rotating, my hands start digging, I’m paddling.  I look over one shoulder but the wave is too much to bear.  It is so big, maybe it would be better to not look.  OK, look over the other shoulder, it’s got to be smaller on that side.  Here it comes, paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, push-up, knees, left foot, right foot, hold the rails, find balance, stand…oh no, oh no, come on, find balance, find balance.  AAAAHHHHH, if falling, fall like a starfish, fall like a starfish…as if I have any control, please.  Wipe out, hold breath, hands up, open eyes, OPEN EYES!  Eat sand, drink salt water, find the surface.  Hurry, hurry, get on the board before the next one comes crashing down.  I barely make it back on my board before the next big one is upon me.  I don’t have time to do anything, but just hold on and pray.  You’d think that after that wipe out, I’d head back in, heck no, can’t end on a bad one, now can I? Back out I go.  Sitting on my board, taking it all in, just hangin’.  Boy, I think that wipe shook me a little more than I originally thought.  All the things other surfers have said start popping up.  You know, there is Vana on the bottom and if you touch it, it will burr itself in so deep that you’ll need surgery to get it out.  Sometimes it is so toxic that not only can you get really sick, you can lose that part of your body.  It’s awfully shallow out here today.  I think one could stand and the water would only be knee-deep.  Better keep my feet up.  What’s that, what’s that?  I swear I see a shadow under my feet.  Turtles do not swim in this spot so there is no way it is that.  Maybe I should just pull my feet up.  Out of the corner of my eye I catch something moving in the distance.  Is that a fin?  If it’s a fin that means there is a shark attached to it.  That one dude said he’d surfed on several occasions with sharks off in the distance, but none ever came that close to him.  I search, and search, and don’t see anything.  My imagination is getting the best of me.Just forget all of this nonsense, concentrate on the surfing.  That works for all of a second, when I see something floating under me.  This spot is known for Man-o-War.  The one and only time I was bitten, it hurt like nothing I’d ever felt before nor do I want to experience that again.  It can’t be that.  There is no way.  I take a closer look, again, my imagination is getting the best of me.  There is nothing down there.  Just get over all this, it was a minor wipe out, no need to freak out!I take a deep breath, get in position, and enjoy catching the next wave.  As I ride, I try to turn left, but my board is lagging.  Now how can a board lag, it’s not like it’s a car, now is it?!  I hustle back out to catch another ride.  I catch one, ride one, then tumble off, out-of-control, unbalanced.  The board flips over.  What’s that on the fin?  There’s a huge slice in it.  Let me take a closer look.  Oh my gosh, I’ve been surfing with my fin cover on this whole time.  How lame is that?!  After removing the cover, I paddle out, catch the next wave, and imagine, to my surprise, the board turns with ease.  Maybe surfing without the cover works just a tad better!  The rest of the day sailed by with no serious events, traumas, dilemmas, or issues.  I caught many more waves, tumbled a few times, sat waiting, and enjoyed.  Mother Nature was kind to me once She put me in my place.  As I drive away, I can hear the faint whisper of her calling me, reminding me to come back again real soon, that She’d be waiting for me, waiting to give me the ride of my life.

Cowabunga dude, it’s time for yet another saga from the surfer girl’s life…

As I woke to the sound of pouring rain, I found myself to be in a magenta mood.  Piddling around the house, debating, yes, debating, whether to go or to stay, and given my mood I was more apt to stay, but then I heard it, my name.  The waves were calling to me, begging me to come, take a ride, promising the adventure of a lifetime, yet still softly whispering to me.

So, I gathered my belongings up and plopped down into he truck.  Driving down the road, I could feel my magenta mood disappearing, as I rounded the corned, just on the other side of the tunnel, I saw them…the waves.  They looked so gentle and peaceful, as if they could never do any harm.  It was a beautiful sight, and the longing to be in the water rose in me.  Finally, finally, I arrived, found a spot to park, and went to get my board, my forgiving 11 foot soft-top.  The one that is the Cadillac ride of them all.

The one that when people see it, they think I must really be a beginner as they have never seen such a long board, in all their life!  With board in hand, O.K. maybe not in hand, but doesn’t that sound good?  Anyway, with board in arm, I dredge down the beach to “thee spot,” the place in which you can watch the surfers, the waves, the water, and plan your mission.  I prop the board on the wall, yank out my towel and grab a squat.  I sit, watching, watching to see, to see who is where, what the waves look like, plan my attack.  It’s a freeway system out there, so many newbies, trying to stand, getting in the way, just beginners, just like I was a month ago, so I decide to wait.  Wait until they are done.  So I lie back and soak in the sun.

It is time, the newbies are getting out of the water and it is settling down.  I start to put on all my garb, the rash guard, the booties, the sunscreen, the lip balm, ankle strap…then I drag, literally drag the board to the water, must drag, since it is so heavy I can barely lift it up.  I jump on the board and paddle out.  I paddle out a little further than I was planning, but the waves looked so inviting.  Once out, I begin cursing my ego as the huge waves crash over me, knocking me around and spinning me out of control.  On one particular bad crash, another surfer girl gets a little bit of an attitude and asks me if I have taken a lesson.  Which I answer yes, and go on my way.  This comment, of course, clings to me, like no other negative comment I have heard in my lifetime.  I try shaking it off, but it hangs over me like a dark cloud.  I eventually get to a place where the waves are smooth enough for me to actually catch and ride.  The rides are magnificent, smooth, and easy, the surrounding water like glass.  These, these waves, these rides, are why we continue to go back, over and over again.  Just to catch the one ride that we can speak of for a lifetime.  On one good ride, one of the instructors noticed me and when I got back out to the waiting area, he commented that he sees me out there every day, trying, and stroking my ego, then tells me to come back later, when the classes are done, it’s much better surfing.  This brings a smile to my face, as I am now one of them, one of the regulars, no longer considered a newbie, I’ve made it, I’ve made it into to the big time.  Well, maybe not the big time, but…in my mind I’ve made it.

But, alas, the newbies are coming and it’s time to get out, so I ride one last one in, all the way to the shore and climb out.  I pull the board back to its resting place on the wall, and pull off all my garb and plop down on my towel, watching the newbies again and enjoying, yes enjoying each of their failures and triumphs.  At least I can relate to what they are going through.

It is starting to clear out, but I need to be patient just a little bit longer.  Finally, it’s time.  I go through the regular routine of putting everything back on, and dragging the board out to the edge of the water, jump on and start to paddle out.  The waves have mellowed a little.  I go out a little further than I should, but what else is new, right?!  I’m getting ready to catch a ride, I’m paddling, paddling, and just as I am getting ready to make my move this advanced surfer guy, cuts in on me and rides right in front of me, he’s riding the face and not caring that he cut me off.  I curse under my breath and scold the advanced surfers for coming to a beginner’s spot.  So, I turn the board around and paddle back out, get in position to catch the next wave.  There are a few young boys who are pretty decent surfers, out there, not “playing by the rules,” taking each wave with no concern or care for others.  I wait patiently for my turn, but seeing they are not going to let that happen I decide to take the wave of my choice, becoming the selfish surfer I so hate in others.  Each ride is smooth and easy, no battling, no crashing, no mistakes, ok, maybe a little wobbly on a few, but really, great rides, the Cadillac of all rides.  It is comfortable, easy, flowing.  Of course it is not good for my over-indulging ego, which leads me into temptation regularly.  Can you guess what I am doing now, yes, that is right, paddling out to the outer set of waves.

You’d think by now I would learn that they are a little too big for me, but no, with all those rides so smooth I think I’m ready, which, of course, I am not, but ego prevails.  Off I go, out to the big waves.  Try as I may, I paddle, get in position, crash, paddle, get in position, crash.  If only I could catch just one of these monstrosities of a wave, I would be so grateful.  Here is my chance, a wave, a really big wave is coming, if I don’t take it, it will surely crush me.  In a panic I get ready, then I paddle, I look over my shoulder, and I’m sure if there were a video on my face, you would see the sheer terror in my eyes, but better to catch it then to crash, so here I go, oh no, there is no way, and the wave tosses me, turns me, and throws me, I hold my breath, I’m under water, remember, wait three seconds before coming up, put your hands above your head so the board doesn’t smack you on the head.  And finally when I pop my head out of the water, the board, my loving, forgiving board, is just floating on the surface, as if it could not hurt anything, even a fly.  I sit there for a moment and ponder, but no real surfer goes in without that one last ride.  So, yes, off I go, paddling out too far, as usual.  This time the waves are coming at a pretty fast interval and I am so not ready.

I lie in wait, until there is one, the one for me.  I think I see one, I start getting ready, but there is no way, it’s coming too fast, I’m not ready, it is going to crush me, but shear stubbornness will not let me be crushed once again by Mother Nature.  I remember that rolling thing, where you hold the sides of the board, roll over, hanging on, and let the board take the hit of the wave, then as it passes, roll back over, and you are on top of the board again, as if nothing happened.  And sure enough, I did it, I actually did.  I laugh in the face of Mother Nature, who proceeds to throw bigger and faster waves at me to show me that She is the all-powerful one, and I am nothing, but a drop in her water, who can be crushed at any moment, with a flick of her wind.  Not wanting to be the loser in this battle I decided to go in to some of the more gentle waves, the real beginner’s waves.  I catch a few great rides, riding them all the way to the shoreline, and returning for another.  I’m practicing turning and stopping and not falling off the board, but returning to the starting position.  I look like a stud, especially compared to the newbies!  So, I venture out, just a little further, not much though, as Mother Nature is still waiting her revenge.

The rides are coming and going with the ease of every day walking.  I’m practicing all the things I’ve learned when this great ride comes along, I’m up, I’m riding and I don’t want it to end, I see the tail, to my right, not yet, curling over, so me, little ol’ me, decides to “ride the face”, I turn the board, yes, I really did turn the board, to the right and I’m on the face, oh what a feeling.  I’m riding the top of the wave, just like the pros do, so ok maybe it’s only a few feet high, but the feeling is the same…I’m in control, I am mastering the wave, I am dominating the wave.  What a great feeling.  It is indescribable.  This is what it all about.  As I scramble down to the lying position, I am already planning my next ride, well, that’s not exactly true since you can never really plan a ride, but you know what I mean.  I paddle out, yes a little too far, as usual, and get ready.  By this time Mother Nature is not very happy, as She likes to be in charge.  Her revenge is near, I can feel it, but no worries, as I am having an awesome day, I am unstoppable.  Here comes a wave, I decide it is the one for me…it’s fast, really fast, too fast really, but it’s a little too late to think about that…the wave catches me and I’m flying through the water, oh no, the nose of the board is digging down, no not a nose dive, I can’t do a nose dive, they really, really suck!  Again, my in-grained stubbornness will not allow it, I pull my head back, I yank my feet back, and I continue the pattern, knees, then feet, but I can’t see, the salt water, and the sand blinding me, the board sailing through the water like it has never done before, but I will not crash, I will not crash.  I’m standing, hey, I’m up and I’m riding the wave, no way, I can’t believe I pulled myself out of it, this is so cool.  As I wipe my sand and salt out of my eyes and pull my bottoms up, yes, they were a bit low, if you know what I mean, I begin to enjoy the ride, I am basking in my success.  Yet, again, beating Mother Nature at her own game.  Aaahhh, the joy of success.  I take another few rides before dragging the dang heavy board to its resting spot on the wall.

As I fall on my towel, in pure exhaustion, I decide I’ll go at it one last time before calling it a day.  Oh, by the way, remember that girl who asked me if I’d taken a lesson?  She was out there, I was watching her, and you know what, she sucked, she didn’t look any better than I did, she was a beginner, just like me, I laugh aloud as she stumbled to find her footing on the board, wobbling out-of-control ,then crashing and tumbling in the waves.

She was just a beginner, just a beginner.

I wait patiently for the right time to go out.  There is almost no one in the water.  The newbies have gone home, the advanced dudes are not here yet, so there are only the few of us, the die-hard wannebees.  By now, you know the routine, so I won’t bore you with those facts.  I, of course, what, yes, paddle out too far as usual.  But there are no waves to speak of, so I sit on my board, looking over the horizon, watching the beauty our world has to offer.  I observe the boats docked, tied-down, floating in the sea just out of reach.  I notice the outline of the island next to us, how it looks as if no human has ever corrupted it.  As I turn, the glare of the sun in my eyes, I take pride in the fact that I can sit out there, on the board, becoming one with Mother Nature.  She is in a peaceful state now, calm, inviting, safe.  I ponder the realities of life, my self-being, I ponder, well, everything.  Then a wave comes, but I tell myself to be patient as I now know, the third wave of a set is usually the best one.  I ride, I crash, I paddle, I ride, I crash, I paddle.  And this repeats itself over and over again.  I’m tired, but I’m not ready to pack it in just yet.  So, I paddle out and sit on my board, this time facing the shoreline, by the way, you should never do that, put your back to the ocean.  But I do it anyway.  I look over the water to the shore break, to the shoreline and beyond.  What an incredible view, the buildings barely noticeable, dotted with trees and rocks.  I never realized how beautiful it was.  The mountains are covered in clouds as the storm has finally made its way over here.  There is a rainbow beginning in the water, through the clouds, up over the mountain, and back down again.  What an awesome sight that is, there has never been anything as beautiful as what I am seeing.  It’s like I am seeing it for the first time.

This inner peace washes over me as I sit there, not caring about catching the next ride or if that will ever happen again.  The feeling in intense, indescribable, but one that I know I can never experience on land, it is one only experienced when on a board.  It’s just you, the board, and the water, nothing more, nothing less.  You become one with Mother Nature, and She is happy.

But you know, I have to take just one more ride, just one more.  So, after a whole bunch of way too big of waves and me being crushed under their great velocity, I finally see one that maybe I can catch, but if I don’t try I will surely die trying.  I look all around me, see no one except this one girl who is just paddling out, so I’m safe to try to catch it.  I’m paddling, really paddling hard, looking over my right shoulder first, then as I look over my left shoulder not only do I see this wave that looks to be a good 10-15 feet tall, but that girl, remember the one who was paddling OUT, is on the top to the curve, right above my head, literally, she looks like her board is directly above my head with her atop.  The wave’s face looks like big jaws with knarghly teeth ready to sink into my body and swallow me up whole.  I curse the girl, I curse the wave, and I curse my ego, all making me forget my job.  This is a brutal crash, I tumble around, losing sight of the sky, and generally feeling out-of-control with no hope of survival.  I muster all my training up and quickly recover to find the surface, and as I am grasping for air, I see the girl, the girl who freaked me out so much I forgot what I was doing and where I was, I saw her, she crashed big time!  Serves her right for cutting in on me!  But I cannot go in on that one, no true surfer girl ends on a bad one…must catch one more, just one more.  So, yes, I jump back on the board and paddle back out, find my waiting spot, and sit resting, catching my breath, making sense of the experience I just had.  Communing with Mother Nature.  I let many good waves pass by me, not caring that they may be “the one.”  There will be more, there will be others.  As I wait for the perfect one, more advanced surfers start coming out, they are everywhere, and they have no decorum, they play by their own rules, they have no care or consideration for others, as they think they are the supreme surf gods.  (But Mother Nature assures me she will get them too, as She is the Supreme Goddess).  This is when I know it is my time, my time to catch a good one, then call it a day.  The ride is so smooth, the best of the day, I ride the face, I catch the after swells, I turn, I do it all, and even catch it all the way to shore.  It was well worth the wait.  It was the ride of the day.  Grudgingly, I pull the board from the water, ready to put it back in its home, until we meet again.  My last day of freedom coming to a fast close, I’m saddened that I will not have this experience again for a long time.  It seems like eternity until I can ride again.  But, I will ride again, rest assure, I will ride again.  As I sit here, allowing the world to see my vulnerabilities, I can hear them calling, calling my name…

Are you ready for surfing sage number 3?  Well, here goes…Off I go with board in hand, paddling the far distance to catch a wave…once out in the waves I get a panicky feeling.  Why would that happen after being so successful, ok maybe not that successful but in the baby waves I’m a stud, at any rate it’s because I lost my confidence.  Shattered to threads.  How could this be…let me tell you.  The day before I had one to pick up “the board,” not any board, but my 11′ board.  You remember, the soft top, the beginner board, the one that floats even when you’re not trying.  It was gone, nowhere to be found.  How could this be, who would rent such a board?!  But, of course, the manager comes to the rescue and shows me this awesome, great, not better than great, 11′ foot fiberglass board, that they don’t let just anyone take out, only the very best can take it out.  I’m skeptical, but he convinces I can surf on it no problem.  We strap it to the top of the truck and off we go, to my favorite spot, “the wall” as we “surfers” call it.  I’m excited, looking forward to the rush, I need the rush, it’s become an addiction, well not really, but it sounds good doesn’t it?!  I put my rash guard on.  I put my booties on.  I put sunscreen on.  I look out over the horizon.  The waves look so great.  I jump on the board and start paddling out to the “sweet spot,” the paddling is so smooth and easy.  I think, OK maybe this board is going to be great after all.  I’m getting ready to catch a good wave, wham!  Crash and burn.  But that’s ok since it’s the first wave.  This goes on for what seems likes hours.  I do stand up, twice, for like, I don’t know, 3 seconds.  The crash and burn. So, I decide it would be better to go back in and forget the whole thing. It is amazing how your self-confidence self-worth can get wrapped up in something so trivial as a board, as a wave.  I head home in defeat, frustrated, and almost in tears.  After all, I thought I mastered the beginner board, I thought I was an advanced-beginner, but now, after today, I feel like such a failure.  But my sheer stubbornness, which I inherited from my parents takes over.  And that brings us to today.  Why I was panicking on “my board.”After the day I had before I was freaking out, doing the whole self-talk thing, you know, “you can do it, it’s only a wave, it’s something you’ve done a million times, you’re on “thee board,” no worries.”  The waves are not the usual rolling, gentle, ok maybe not so gentle, but today, they are, rough and a lot higher.  I get ready to catch the wave coming, I’m paddling, paddling, paddling like crazy, I catch the wave, and am about to stand up when some punk kind drops in on me, oh that’ when someone else jumps on your ride and ruins your ride for you.  This happens a few more times, and I’m getting a little “pissed,” so I go out a little further.  Of course, these waves are probably a little too much for me to handle, but at the same time those bratty kids can’t drop in on me way out here.  I’m watching, trying to be patient, not taking the first wave that comes my way.  then I see it, the perfect wave, I look all around me, there is no one in sight.  Yes, I have a chance, so I paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, and I’m getting up, I’m almost standing, and out of nowhere this man, obviously a better surfer than myself, but he has no decorum, is there, and his tip is riding over my tip, oh crud, we’re going to crash, but then he reaches down and pushes my board out of his way and I crash while he continues on.  This makes me a tad angry, but what can you do.  So off I go again, in search of the prefect wave, the one good ride.  I’m not doing so great…I bite it, like, oh, I don’t know a hundred times in a row.  When I say to myself, catch one ride and you can go in, just one.  Of course, after catching “just one,” I am starting to feel better about myself and I gain a little bit of confidence, and decide, just one more.  You know the story of “just one more,” right.  I’m doing pretty well, catching some waves, crashing sometimes, but over all not too bad.  I look to the shoreline, and what do I see, about 15hundred newbies coming.  By the time they take there land lesson, and paddle out it will be a good 30-45 minutes, so I have time.  I figure I’ll ride until they come out.  I caught this great wave, and am riding it when all of a sudden this girl is next to me, but not going straight.  You got she is about to ride over my tip and crashing that close to the rocks is not anything I want to do, so I reach down, grab her board, hold on to it, the gently glide it to shore.  After the ride is over, I stop and think, oh my gosh, I was standing and just instinctively did that, OH MY GOSH!  I’ve now gone to a whole nother level in my surfing career.  I feel like such a not beginner at this moment.  How can it possibly get any better?  With my chest puffed out and my ego way out of control I paddle back out to catch, just one more wave.  After crashing and burning some more, I get in position to catch a great one.  I’m up and going fairly quickly, I go around one newbie, then I notice this instructor holding two newbies on their boards, but he got off his board and is letting it float, perpendicular to the shore.  (You do know they are not suppose to that, right?)  I’m heading straight for them, I’m trying to figure out what to do, like there is really time to debate this fact.  I see there is a gap between the floating board and the people so I try to head for the gap, hoping I’ll sail right through, but since I’m new to the whole steering thing, it’s not going so well.  I’m close to the opening, but something changes last minute, I’m not sure what changes but I am not going to make it through that gap.  The instructor just stands there, doesn’t even try to move his board out the way or anything.  So here I am, forgetting how to stop, barreling through when my board comes to an abrupt halt and as I’m falling, I land, sitting on his board, which I thought was kind of funny. Then I tip off his board.  I probably would have laughed if the instructor would have been at least smiling, but he wasn’t so I just collect my board and head back out.  You know, to catch another wave, just one more.  After about an hour and a half, I decide to take a break, besides there are so many “newbies” out it is like a freeway system out there.  So, I actually catch a wave that brings me all the way in, trudge out and sit down to rest, watching the newbies.It’s starting to clear out, good chance to get out there again.  I go through the whole routine of putting everything back on and dragging the board out.  As I jump on the board to paddle out, there is a huge school of fish right there.  It’s kind of cool to be standing amongst the fish then paddling over them.  A little weird too since they didn’t even move, but whatever…Off I go, paddling out to find the perfect ride.  I’m up on most waves, standing, although a bit shaky as I still have that confidence issue. But I’m enjoying myself.  I catch a pretty good ride and see how far I can ride.  I end up almost to shore, when I get a tad more wobbly then usual. Next thing you know, I am losing my balance, trying like crazy to regain control, but not winning this battle.  Oooohhh, I’m falling, I’m falling, OUCH!  I hit my shin and then my gluteus on the coral below.  You realize that the water here is like knee deep.  I lift my leg up to rub the sore spot, when I notice blood rushing down my leg.  It does kind of sting.  Then I notice the spot where the blood is coming from…a huge white spot.  I think, I hope, I did not cut it down to the bone.  It does look kind of gross.  Maybe I better go in.  As I debate, I drag the board to shore.  At least I should check it out, just to be sure, right?  So as I depart the water with blood flowing down my leg, and the tourist staring at me, I wonder if this will be the end of my surfing, at least for today.  I beckon Skeeter over to take a look at it, I want a second opinion.  He looks at it as tells me it is just a flesh wound, why am I getting out of the water.  If you’re a true surfer then get your “butt” back it there and catch some waves.  I kind of batter with him, and reluctantly drag the board back out there and jump on it to start paddling.  Yes, there is blood still streaming down my leg, but I am a “true surfer,” or at least I like to pretend I am.Skeeter decides he wants to get a few action shots of me, for the record, so you can see for yourself these sagas are real, for the record. This means I have to surf closer to the rock wall, otherwise he won’t be able to get the pictures.  I’m working really hard, paddling, positioning, standing, posing, ok maybe not posing, and he’s shooting.  I’m catching some great rides.  I’m feeling more confident, more like myself.  Happy and enjoying Mother Nature.  I usually paddle out, then rest, then catch a wave, but he is impatient, so there is no rest.  Paddle, position, ride, paddle, position, ride.  I am completely out of breath after a good 45 minutes of doing this.  So one the last ride, I’m way out, where the third set of waves start.  There is a huge one coming, but I’m feeling pretty good, so I try to catch it, and sure enough, here I go, oh my gosh, this is so fast, but I’m up, I’m up, YES!  I’m riding it.  This is so cool.  This is awesome.  All the way in, to the shore.  Aahh, what a ride!  Finally, the reason why we all go out there every time, to catch that one good ride.I’m sitting on the shore now, watching the freeway, seeing who’s doing what, watching the crash and burns and giggling to myself.  Enjoying the fact that I’m not the only one who looks like a complete idiot.  Then, all the classes are going in, and the water is smooth as glass.  The waves are peaceful.  There is no one out there.  But I am so tired, but how can I pass this opportunity up, but I’m so tired.  I’m sure you know what happens next…yes, I don all the gear and drudge back out there.  I am paddling but going nowhere.  By the time I get out to the “waiting spot” I am dead tired, out of breath.  But it is so beautiful.  I sit on my board and look over the horizon.  This is what they mean, this is why they sit out here, this is it, the true sense of feeling like you are one with the ocean.  I feel like the guys in the movies, they so often show sitting in the water, staring out over the horizon, contemplating life.  This whole inner peace washes over me.  This most incredible feeling consumes my whole being. Everything makes sense now.  Life, makes sense now.  I cannot begin to express the feelings that rush through my every cell, it is something that when you’re ready, as a surfer, you have to experience for yourself.  It makes it all worth it, for sure.After quite some time, I realize that I will actually have to catch something if I want to get back into shore.  So, I start doing the debate thing…I’m still so tired though.  I won’t bore you with all the details of every crash and burn, just suffice it to say, there are many of them!  As I paddle back through the waves, each time I think, I am way too tired, I can’t do this, I am way too tired.  But you can’t end on that, no good surfer would.  So I push myself, I catch a good ride and feel great about my day, but then I get “the urge”, the one that you always hear about, the one all the surfers always say…”just one more, just one more”.  It takes over, this “just one more.”  It is in complete control, I have no control; over the situation, none, it does, have control that is, over me, over my good sense of judgment, over my rational thinking, over everything…that’s right, it wins.  Off I go, to find “just one more.”  It seems like eternity while I’m waiting…I’m so tired I can’t even get up on the board to sit, so I just lie there, preying to the wave gods, to bring in “just one more”, I make all the usual promises to the wave gods…then here it comes the biggest set of the day, or at least in my mind it’s the biggest set of the day.  I must ride this one, I must.  I gather up every ounce of strength I have left, I muster each muscle and yes, I’m up and I’m riding it, I even catch the three swells that follow it in, and I get all he way to shore. And now, I must thank the wave gods for allowing me to find the “just one more.”  Even though “the urge” is fighting me, I reluctantly drag, literally, drag the board, out of the water, I can’t even pick it up, every fiber in my body is screaming at me, I don’t think I can even lift a water bottle at this point.  But, I had a pretty good day and my confidence has been restored and the “gods” were good to me.  It’s time to close yet another chapter in the surfing saga, at least until the next time, which will be tomorrow, for sure!  Until then, have a good one!K 

Here is the second chapter in “The Saga of the Surfer Girl”…Well, yesterday I took Ariel and one of her friends, Melissa, surfing.  It was a bit of a wretched beginning.  Ariel didn’t want to surf, Melissa could not rent a board, then they gave me a 9′6 rather than a 10′, so it all started out pretty poorly.  I took the 9′6 out and it really sucked.  After I came in, I told the girls I was going to change the board in for an 11′. But we decided to give Melissa her “lesson” first, then trade it in.  Ariel and I, remembering the DVD and the lesson we took from Beth, proceeded to “teach” Melissa all our new found knowledge.  It went ok for beginnings or shall I say, the blind leading the blind.  I was actually surprised by the way we could remember all the right things to do but couldn’t necessarily do them ourselves.  At any rate, after deliberating over finding another board, I went and rented the 11′ board and told the girls they would have to share the 9′6 board.  Ariel went out first and caught the first wave, of course no picture!  Afterwards Melissa went out, and wouldn’t you know it, within the first several waves, she was up and standing.  I couldn’t believe it.  It was incredible.  I figured they were ok and off I went to catch a few myself. Little did I know this was going to be the beginning of the nightmare.After riding a few and crashing a bunch, I went to get the girls to come to the middle set of waves.  I was trying to get out of the really busy area and a little further out to catch some of the rolling waves.  I got the girls out there and wouldn’t you know it, a huge, incredibly huge, wave comes…I lose control of the board and it cracks Ariel in the head, no not just like the back of the head, but the nose to be precise.  There is blood everywhere, gushing out all over the place.  She starts screaming.  I try to get her to use direct pressure and she just starts freaking out.  The people in the water around us are panicking.  I feel like a complete dork!  I’m trying to get her in to shore, but she is being ridiculous, won’t listen, and is still screaming.  One of the instructors even tells her what to do but she won’t listen.  On she goes ranting and raving how she hates surfing and is never going to do it ever again…this is where I know if I don’t get her up on a board right away she will always have this fear.  So I tell her she cannot go into shore until she rides one wave.  So she grabs the board and flies to shore, standing, “see, told you I could do it!”  Then promptly gets out of the water.  She decides to wonder away, which is unacceptable since you never know what could happen.  I get out of the water to search for her. Finally finding her, I blast her with my words.  Then for the next hour or so, there is no joy in surfing, no catching a really good wave, it just really sucks.  She sucked the joy right out of surfing.  Eventually Melissa takes the board out and I decide I’m just going to work with her.So, I’m out there, sitting on my board, yelling, “paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle harder, up!” and Melissa pops right up and rides the waves all the way in.  We do this over and over again.  It’s kind of cool seeing someone you taught to surf, actually get up.  Then these ladies ask me, while I’m still sitting on the board, if I’m a surf instructor, me, a surf instructor. How funny is that?  So I begrudging tell them I’m a teacher at one of the local schools.  They reply saying I have the aurora of a teacher.  That’s a good thing, right?  By this time these waves are too easy for Melissa so I persuade her out to the middle set, yes, the ones we just had “the incident in.”  I sit on my board yelling instructions to her and after a few times, I leave her to catch a few more myself.I’m out there a little further out then usual.  I’m feeling a bit overconfident, you’ll see what I mean in a second.  There are a few rolling waves, and I catch them, sort of.  My mind is still on Ariel and I think I’m kind of freaked out a little.  I try to shake the feelings away, so sense in wasting the money or the time if I’m not going to catch anything, right?! So I struggle to get a sense of where I am and what I’m doing when this huge set of waves comes barreling in…  I think, I can surf these, yeah right!  I big time wiped out.  Then again, and again, and yes two more times.  The last time the wave tumbled me around so much that I actually turned upside down in the water.  Using my life guarding skills, I think, which way are the bubbles going, wait, wait, wait, now, then I pop my head up and sure enough there is air, thank God, AIR!  But I didn’t tell you about one of the middle waves that crushed me.  I flipped off the board, and the board was crashing around me, bouncing up and down, and I actually panicked, thinking this board is getting revenge and is going to hit me in the head.  My “training” takes over and I duck under the water, wait three seconds, put my hands above my head/face and come back up…stupid board, is just floating upside down on the water, like it wasn’t intending to do anything at all. Oh yeah, that’s right, the board is not living, but sometimes in the water it feels like it has a mind of its own!  I decide to take one wave in, eat, check on Ariel and Melissa, then maybe go out again.  So, I’m looking for the best wave, then here it comes, up and off I go.  It is the best ride of the entire!  I’m really enjoying it.  Of course, the other “real” beginners are not getting out of the way and the rides is too good to stop, and something comes over me, I can steer, I can steer.  I’m moving from side to side, avoiding the “real” beginners, this is so cool!  I actually rode it all the way to shore.After grabbing half a sandwich and a bottle of water, then checking on the girls, who seem to be doing better, I grab the board and head out.  Ariel wants to go this time, so I get her to catch a few baby waves, as I’m starting to call them.  Then I bring her out with me to the middle set, which by now are almost as small as the first set.  She’s doing ok, but then the most beautiful, perfect wave comes, and I can’t let it go past with an attempt, so as I’m getting going, Ariel starts screaming, “memories, memories” she’s crying because she thinks I’m going to run her over with the board or crash on top of her, but the wave feels so good and I know I have control, this time anyway, that I go for it.  I ride right past her, I’m turning, and gliding and oh my gosh, this is the most awesome ride yet. Ok, I know I’ve said that before, but it really was the greatest!  Once, I’m done, I turn and look for Ariel, who has gone quickly back tot he beginner waves.  Oh well, whatever.  When I get back out there, one of the instructors tells me how scared she was and was screaming the whole time. I’m not too embarrassed or anything, but she’ll get over it!Now things are really looking up.  The rest of the afternoon I’m catching all sorts of excellent rides.  Melissa is on her way to becoming the next teen surf star and Ariel is contently sitting on the sandy beach.  It’s time to go, but just one more ride, just one more, please.  Melissa goes in, then let’s Ariel get her last ride, which, by the way, surprised me!  I take one wave, which was good, but not “the one.”  So I paddle back out, and wait, and wait, and wait, I think, come one, please, just one more, then I’ll go in, just one more.  Then her it comes, a really good set.  I’m telling myself, wait, don’t take the first one, or the second one, the third one is usually the biggest, fastest and best.  So I’m lying on the board, waiting, then paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle harder, look over my shoulder, oh shot, this may be a tad too big for me, but it’s too late know…go for it…and I’m up, I’m really up and going pretty fast, forgetting that I should actually try to turn.  Then I get my bearings and see I’m headed for the real beginner waves where they are all standing by or sitting on their boards, not moving out of the way, just looking like deer in the headlights. I don’t want the ride to end, so I start turning, but not soon enough, there is a really old man, no I mean really old, like 70, lying on his board looking at me, in a panic, I yell to watch out, but he doesn’t hear me, oh crud, I can’t crash on this old man.  I’m trying like crazy to turn, come on board turn, then you know what, it turns, it actually turns and I miss the ol’ guy by, oh, an inch or so.  Whew!  But I still want to keep surfing, so I ride the wave as far as it will take me, which is almost all the way to shore.  This time I really do get out since I must go off to my “real life,” the code writing class!  But before we go, we give Melissa’s Dad a surfing lesson.  These details will have to follow another time due to the fact that we left and did not watch the results.  It was a great afternoon!

Aloha All,Hope this message finds you well and enjoying life, as we are here on

Maui, in paradise!OK here is the latest surfing saga:After not getting too far on our own, we decided we needed to try another spot or something.  We went into Borders to look for a book for Skeeter to read…I was bored waiting for him so I wondered over to the surfing section, which I glanced through numerous books and videos.  Then, I ran across this DVD from a local surfer chick who specializes in teaching girls and women.  I got excited and showed to Skeeter.  He thought I was being funny and didn’t need it, but I purchased it anyway.  Upon arriving home, we popped it in and watched intently at her techniques.  I must have made him replay it a dozen times.  Then I tried it on the floor…not a great idea as we have those really super hard wooden floors.  So after the viewing we felt armed with all this new information and ready to attempt to surf again.We’ve seen a lot of lesson in Kanapali so off we went in hopes of catching a wave or two.  We had our new technique, a new board, and the expectation of doing it.  Well, by the time we carried all the stuff out to the beach, which was a walk in-and-of-itself, we were exhausted.  After a brief rest, I got ready to go out.  With all the rashes, bruises, cuts, etc. I decided to try board shorts with a rash guard.  Off I went, excited, ready, and so sure I was going to get up.  I started paddling, then paddling, then paddling, then paddling, and started thinking, “how far is it?  I’m already getting tired!”  When I finally got out to the break, I was huffing and puffing and sat there wondering, if I ride the wave then I’m going to have to paddle back out…is it really worth it???  That competitive edge I have and absolute stubbornness forced me into taking the chance.  After several attempts with no luck but on my knees and pure exhaustion from the massive paddling, I slinked back to the beach where I promptly dumped the board in the sand and sat down in defeat.After this very frustrating experience, I was ready to accept the fact that surfing is just not for me…too old, not flexible, too many injuries, blah, blah, blah.  I was so tired and did not catch one wave!  I was a tad testy after that attempt.  After Skeeter listened to me go on and on about how much I really wanted to be a surfer girl but was bummed that I just couldn’t do it, he sat quietly pondering all.  Then he simply stated he would not allow me to quit, especially since I was so close.  He said I should take another lesson.  This, of course, opened a whole new can of worms, as one would say, which brought on multiple discussions over the next24 hours.  By-the-way, I was crabby all day!Tuesday, after dropping Ariel at Jr. Life guarding, the two of us set out to find this instructor from the video, Skeeter in the phone book, me, well of course on-line!  I finally found her number on a website and rang her.  I explained the surfing sage from the last two weeks and my desire to stand. We chatted for a while and felt really good about her, so we booked a lesson, but not any lesson, a PRIVATE LESSON!!!  (for the next day).  This spurred much excitement and hesitation.  Skeeter said this would make it or break it.  He felt if I got up I would fall in love with the sport and would want to do it all the time.  I was a bit skeptical due to my most recent failures.The big day has arrived, finally.  I decide to bring Ariel along too since she was dying to surf.  We stopped for crummy fast food since all three of us were starving…big, no make that huge mistake.  I felt so sick I thought I was going to “puke”!  I took a short nap, on the beach praying it would go away.  Then off to the lesson we went.Beth, the instructor, talked to us for awhile, then we carried the boards to the sand.  Mine was an 11-foot board.  OK, let me tell you, it is not one of those lightweight, just throw it over your shoulder boards, no that would be too easy.  It was so frickin’ heavy I thought I was going to give myself a disc compression!  Beth then made us do all these exercises on the board, which is good and bad…my body does not bend or spread in those ways.  I felt like a contortionist, but I pressed on.  Next was the dry run…pretty simple, she just wiggled the board around…no problem there. Next it was standing on the board while in flat water, and practice paddling.  Again, not that hard.  We were no ready to try some real waves, so off we went paddling to the “sweet spot.”Upon arriving, there were 15 billiozion other beginners, O.K., maybe not that many, but definitely a freeway system.  I was glad the instructors had a set pattern that everyone had to follow, made life much easier!  Ariel was a tad scared and wanted me to go first.  Beth and I paddled out to the middle of the middle, if that makes sense.  After the race was on, I rode it on my knees, just to get the feel of the waves.  Paddle, paddle, paddle…wait, wait, wait…now it’s my turn again.  This time I am WILL stand, PERIOD!!  Off we go, seeking the sweet spot…I’m up, I’m really up, then, look out, a little boy doesn’t know he’s turning his board…oh no, his board is going completely on top of the nose of my board…we’re going to crash…if I fall I will land on him, and that will not be fun, keep standing, keep standing, wait, wait…ok now.  I fall in with my hand grabbing the little boy too gently, or I think it was gently, push him so the two boards and I don’t fall on him.  (He was very apologetic after all was said and done).Paddle, paddle, paddle, wait, wait, wait.  Is it my turn yet?  I am so determined I think I was racing to get back to the waiting spot!  This time, I decide this is the one, this is the one.  Beth gives me some last minute advice and a big push and I’m riding it, I’m really riding it.  I’m up, I’m up, oh no, crash!So alas, I know the rush, I can feel the ocean under my feet and the power, and it is awesome.  I paddle as fast as I can to get out to the sweet spot again, but Beth is still with Ariel and I want to ride, I don’t want to wait!  So, off I go, in search of the next ride, alone.  Willy, another instructor, promptly asks me where my instructor is and why am out there alone…stammering I point to Beth and tell him she’s my instructor.  He gives her the thumbs-up and introduces himself to me.  I’m getting ready to catch it myself and Beth is telling me to wait, but I don’t want to, so Willy jumps in with some more advice, contrary to what Beth said, but whatever, and gives me a great big push, and yes, I’m riding it, for real, I’m riding it!  The lesson continues in this fashion, paddling, waiting, finding the sweet spot, and riding it in, then crashing at some point along the way.At this point Beth has decide I need to go to the “more advanced waves,” which when I’m looking at them, are HUGE!  You know, maybe five whole feet, but really they were huge, really!  Those rides were incredible, and long. The rest of the lesson is spent riding these waves.  I do have to share a couple more really cool rides though…I got up on this one really big wave and was riding it when I saw two other instructors’ very close together and I was going to go right in the middle of them.  Of course, I don’t know how to steer or anything of importance like that.  They must have seen the pure panic on my face because next thing I know these two guys are yelling at me, encouraging me, and telling me to keep riding.  And I did, right through them, no dings, hits, or crashes, all the way back to the beach.  It was the coolest feeling…my own little cheering section!  I even got some high-5’s as I went by…pretty cool.I had a whole bunch of really good rides after that, and I’m sure they are awesome in my own little head, but a tad boring in yours, so I’ll spare you the details.  Well except for the last wave in…  we went so far out, I thought for sure I was going to eat it, those waves were way too nig for me!  Beth was confident and I had to put my trust in her.  (Although she did make me eat one time before actually catching the ride of my life-good thing another instructor was there to save my life. O.K. maybe I wasn’t really in danger, but still…) I got up right away, as now I am the expert-hahaha.  I rode that puppy from way out there all the way in to the sand, AND I even remembered how to squat, sit, lie back down on the board, the get off…no falling off to stop.  I was so impressed with myself I had to yell it over to Beth, who was right behind me.  That was the ride of a lifetime.  It was so perfect, everything went right.  And the really cool thing is, everyone was telling me how awesome I did and I had great balance, and blah, blah, blah, as if I am this big time surfer now, but it still felt great.After this experience, how could I possibly give it up?  Must go again, must go again.  Oh yeah, did I tell you that Beth told me I was a great paddler?  That’s right, all those years of swim have finally paid off!  I think I drove Skeeter mad on the way home, recounting each and every wave, and how I could look cool sitting on my board while I was waiting.  I think he was hoping someone, anyone would call so he could stop stabbing himself in the ear listening.  I got so excited, I traded the 9′8′ board for an 11 footer.  I’m going to give that a whorl tomorrow…got to surf before the flight!  I even talked a friend of mine on

Oahu to take me surfing after the meetings…that should be interesting!  So, I’ll share my next saga with you after I actually experience it.  Can’t wait!See you on the waves!Kelly